The world of RC has numerous different facets; there’s really something for everybody. One of many areas I’ve set my sights on mastering will be the drift segment. It basically goes against everything I’ve learned when it comes to driving sliding is superior to grip, more power does not necessarily mean a faster vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic surpasses rubber. When 3Racing sent over their Axial Wraith, I had to scoop one approximately see what all the hoopla was using this type of drifter.
WHO Causes It To Be: 3Racing
WHO IT’S FOR: Any degree of drift enthusiast
PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD
Exactly How Much: $115.00
BUILD TYPE: Kit
• AWD for easy learning ?
• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?
• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?
• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?
• Battery positioning in front of the motor or around the rear diffuser ?
• Aluminum motor mount ?
• Threaded shocks ?Plenty of tuning adjustment ?
• Extremely affordable pric
• Front drive belt slips off the roller bearing
This drifter has quite a bit choosing it; well manufactured, plenty of pretty aluminum and rolls in in a very reasonable price. Handling is nice also after you become accustomed to the kit setup, plus it accepts a really number of body styles. There’s also a lot of tunability for those that like to tinker, and this car should grow with you for your skills do.
The D4’s chassis can be a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. They have cutouts at the base to the front and back diffs to peek through as well as a bazillion countersunk holes. Most of these are used for mounting things such as the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but you will find several left empty. They could be employed to control chassis flex, although not using the stock top deck; an optional you need to be purchased. The design is comparable to a typical touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system lastly the rear bulkhead/ suspension. Everything is easy to access and replaceable with just a few turns of some screws.
? Apart from a few interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is very similar to a touring car’s. An individual A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are utilized, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to raise them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The back suspension uses vertical ball studs to handle camber and roll even though the front uses an appealing, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This method allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on upper and lower pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and provides for some extreme camber settings.
? A very important factor that’s pretty amazing with drift cars is definitely the serious amount of steering throw they may have. Starting with the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart so that as close to the edges from the chassis as possible. This creates a massive 65° angle, enough to control the D4 in the deepest of slides. Since drifters spend nearly all of their time sideways, I needed a good servo to take care of the ceaseless countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.
While not needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to keep up with any steering angle changes I needed it a moment’s notice.
? The D4 works with a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. An enormous, 92T 48P spur is attached to the central gear shaft, where front and rear belts meet. Pulleys keep your front belt high higher than the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the energy to the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to enable using a assortment of different wheel and tire combos.
? To give the D4 a little bit of beauty, I opted for 3Racing Mini-Z parts body from ABC Hobby. This is a beautiful replica on this car and included a slick group of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure the best way to paint it, but I do remember a method I used some time back that got a bit of attention. So, I gave the RX-3 a try of pearl white in the underside, but painted the fenders black externally. After everything was dry, I shot the exterior having a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I love the ultimate result … and it was easy. That’s good because I’m an extremely impatient painter!
ON THE TRACK
With this test, I had the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter down on the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I used to be heading there to complete an image shoot for one more vehicle and thought, heck, why not take it along and get some sideways action?
The steering in the D4 is pretty amazing. Because I mentioned earlier, the throw is a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference through the parts. Even CVD’s can change that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. Although it does look just a little funny with the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does an amazing job of keeping the slide controlled and moving in the right direction. This can be, in part, due to the awesome handling of the D4, but also the speedy Futaba servo.
Drifting will not be about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I know that sounds odd, but once you’ve mastered the wheel speed of the drifter, it is possible to control the angle of attack as well as the sideways motion through any corner. I came across Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to accomplish exactly that make controlled, smooth throttle alterations in alter the angle of the D4 where and when I needed. Sliding in the little shallow? Increase throttle to obtain the tail end to whip out. Starting to over cook the corner? Ease up a lttle bit and also the D4 would get back in line. It’s all a matter of ? nesse, and the Novak system is ideal for exactly that. I have done really need to be a little creative together with the install in the system due to small space on the chassis, but overall it figured out great.
After driving connected touring cars for quite a while, it does take a little getting used to knowing that an automobile losing grip and sliding is the proper way across the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control when you have it, it’s beautiful. Getting a car and pitching it sideways through a sweeper, while keeping the nose pointed in at lower than a couple of inches from your curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled out of control thing, and the D4 can it wonderfully. The kit setup is useful, but if you believe like you require more of something anything there’s a lot of things to adjust. I actually enjoyed the auto with all the kit setup plus it was only a matter of battery power pack or two before I was swinging the rear around the hairpins, across the carousel and forward and backward throughout the chicane. I never had an opportunity to strap battery on the diffuser, but that’s something I’m looking forward to.
There’s not much you could do to damage a drift car they’re not really going all that fast. I did, however, offer an issue with the top belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the very top deck. In the initial run, it suddenly felt much like the D4 acquired a bit drag brake. I kept along with it, trying to overcome the situation with driving, but soon needed to RPM Team losi parts it directly into actually check it out. Through the build, the belt slips in a plastic ‘tunnel’ that is backed by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted items like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square around the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, once the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide from the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it comes in touch with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura a lengthier screw with a few 1mm shims to space the bearing out a tad bit more. Problem solved.